The Palestinian keffiyeh, also known as the shemagh or hatta, is a traditional Middle Eastern scarf characterized by its distinct black-and-white checkered pattern. Over the years, it has evolved from a simple garment worn by farmers and Bedouins to a powerful emblem of Palestinian identity and resistance, as well as a symbol of political solidarity embraced globally.
Historical Origins and Traditional Use
The keffiyeh’s roots date back centuries, originally serving as a practical piece of clothing for people living in the arid and sun-scorched landscapes of the Levant, including Palestine. When Palestine was part of the Ottoman Empire, the keffiyeh was primarily worn by peasants and Bedouins. Its main function was to protect the wearer from the harsh sun, dust storms, and blowing sand.
Typically, the keffiyeh was white, providing a cooling effect in the blistering heat. The fabric was lightweight but durable, suitable for daily use in farming and herding. The pattern and colour sometimes varied based on regional traditions or the wearer’s tribe. Among Palestinians, the black-and-white checkered pattern eventually became the most common and recognized style, especially among the rural communities.
The Keffiyeh as a National Symbol
The keffiyeh began to transcend its practical origins during the 20th century, especially amid the rising tensions and struggles surrounding the Palestinian people. During the British Mandate period and the subsequent 1948 Nakba (catastrophe), when many Palestinians were displaced, the keffiyeh became more than just a garment—it became a marker of Palestinian identity and unity.
By the 1960s and 1970s, the black-and-white keffiyeh had been adopted as the symbol of the Palestinian nationalist movement. It was famously worn by Yasser Arafat, the leader of the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO), who helped cement its image as an icon of Palestinian resistance. Arafat’s characteristic way of draping the keffiyeh over his shoulder or head made it internationally recognizable.
The pattern itself has symbolic meaning. Some interpretations suggest that the fishnet-like design represents the interconnectedness of Palestinian society, while others view the pattern as reflecting the hardships and resilience of a people under occupation. The keffiyeh’s black-and-white checkers contrast with other regional styles, such as the red-and-white keffiyeh traditionally worn in Jordan and parts of the Arabian Peninsula.
The Keffiyeh in Global Solidarity Movements
In recent decades, the keffiyeh has been embraced by many outside the Palestinian community as a symbol of solidarity with Palestinian rights and struggles. Activists, protesters, and supporters across Europe, North America, and beyond wear the keffiyeh during demonstrations and rallies to visually align themselves with the Palestinian cause.
This adoption in the West has taken various forms. While some wear the traditional black-and-white keffiyeh, others opt for different colours or styles, such as green or red keffiyehs, reflecting diverse political or cultural messages. However, the black-and-white keffiyeh remains the most prominent and widely recognized symbol associated with Palestine.
The scarf’s global visibility increased notably during the Second Intifada (2000-2005), a period of intensified Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Images of Palestinian youth wearing keffiyehs while protesting or facing Israeli military forces were broadcast worldwide, reinforcing the keffiyeh as a symbol of defiance and hope.
Controversies and Commercialization
Despite its powerful symbolism, the keffiyeh has also been the subject of controversy, especially regarding its commercialization and appropriation. As the keffiyeh gained popularity as a fashion accessory in Western countries, many critics argue that it has been stripped of its political and cultural significance.
Fashion brands and retailers began selling keffiyehs in various colours and designs, often without acknowledging or respecting its deep historical and political context. This commercialization sometimes sparked backlash from Palestinians and activists who view such use as disrespectful or trivializing the struggles the keffiyeh represents.
Moreover, in some countries, wearing the keffiyeh has been viewed with suspicion or even criminalized due to its association with political protest. This has added another layer of complexity to the garment’s modern significance.
The Keffiyeh Today: Identity and Resilience
For Palestinians, the keffiyeh remains a potent symbol of heritage, identity, and resilience. It is frequently worn during cultural events, national holidays, and political demonstrations. It connects Palestinians in the diaspora to their homeland, evoking a sense of pride and belonging despite geographic separation.
Beyond Palestine, the keffiyeh has become a universal emblem of resistance against oppression and solidarity with marginalized communities worldwide. Its black-and-white pattern is now recognized globally as a visual shorthand for standing up to injustice and supporting the right to self-determination.
Conclusion
The Palestinian keffiyeh is far more than just a piece of cloth. From its humble origins as sun protection for Palestinian peasants and Bedouins, it has transformed into a symbol rich with cultural meaning and political significance. Wearing the black-and-white keffiyeh today signals a connection to Palestinian history, a statement of identity, and an expression of solidarity with a people striving for justice.
Whether worn by Palestinians or supporters worldwide, the keffiyeh continues to embody a story of survival, resistance, and hope — a timeless emblem of a nation and its enduring spirit.
